Morocco's best known city has long been known as a destination that's exotic yet not too exotic, with a wonderful balance between traditional Maghrebi culture and Western influences - often but not always driven by expats. Sure, there are plenty of old souks and young belly dancers, along with the snake charmers and water sellers of the famous Jamaa el Fna square on the edge of the mazelike, UNESCO World Heritage old quarter. But there are also plenty of upmarket hotels, boutiques, avant-garde restaurants, and galleries spearheading a thriving contemporary arts scene. It's that side of Marrakesh I want to talk about today.

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