Every time I see Antoni Gaudí’s still unfinished Sagrada Família, the crown jewel of the Catalan architect’s vast œuvre, it’s simply not possible to witness the soaring prayer in stone that is this most unusual of temples, and not be moved — in part, no doubt, by the mad genius’ inability to see his grand opus through to completion. But on most trips I also make a point to visit a few of the other landmarks that, like this church, date from a late-19th-to-early-20th-century artistic movement known in Catalonia as Modernisme. Gaudí was certainly its best-known star, but there were dozens of other architects, especially prominent of which were Lluís Domènech i Montaner and Josep Puig i Cadafalch...  

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