When it comes to Croatia, the balmy Dalmatian Coast along the Adriatic Sea, hogs most of the attention with loads of lovely spots such as Dubrovnik, Split, Zadar, Korčula, and Hvar. But the towns, beaches, and landscapes on the Adriatic north of here are also first rate, and though by now you've no doubt heard of most or all of the places I just mentioned, chances are the name Rijeka is new to you. But the country's largest port and third largest city (pop. around 129,000), capital of a western Croatian region called Gorski Kotar is also an appealing destination for its history/architecture, fun nightlife, cultural scene, and cool annual festivals. The last two items are going into overdrive in what should be a banner year for Rijeka, as it's been designated one of 2020's two annual European Capitals of Culture (the other being Galway, Ireland). Curious? Here's a peek.

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