Mix it up with the travel experts


Via the Hedonist's Guides: The fare is American –
chef Nik Biok's chic & tasty takes on comfort food like smoked
stuffed chicken wings with chipotle tamarind, lime relish, and sour
cream, or slow-roasted beef short ribs with guava glaze. But while
foodies give the menu a definite thumbs-up, food is still probably
not the main reason to visit Circus, a
sleek new spot tucked away on Endell Street in Covent Garden. Its
gimmicky (in a good way), somewhat voyeuristic vibe is a magnet for
thrill-seekers, Louboutin-wearing media types and assorted hipsters
who fit right into the stark sky-lit concrete dining room with its
dozens of mirror balls over the bar, rows of synchronized lights in
the lounge area, and even a stripper pole, should you have a glass
too many of Champers and feel like removing a layer or three (the
mastermind behind the décor, not surprisingly, is legendary British
designer Tom Dixon). At regular intervals, your meal is punctuated
by gravity-defying spectacles – say, an aerialist working a silver
hoop suspended over the tables like something out of Cirque du
Soleil (more than a few of the performers have in fact been pinched
from Quebec's greatest gift to show biz outside of Celine Dion).
Mix in a bit of burlesque and a dollop of drag, and the scene at
Circus adds up to quite possibly the greatest show in town. It's
open daily for lunch and dinner, with main dishes in the £13-20
range.
If you've ever eaten Anatolian, you
know what a Turkish delight it is, and Istanbul (not
Constantinople) is certainly jam-packed with places to shovel it
in. But on Akbiyik Caddesi, a popular restaurant row in Sultanahmet
near the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and Topkapi Palace, Dutch-born
Cordon Bleu alumna Eveline Zoutendijk set out her shingle with a
slightly more focused purpose than merely getting tourists fed.
Sure, at Cooking Alaturka you can certainly pull up a
chair and feast on goodies like lentil and bulgur soup with dried
mint and red pepper, or a tomatoey lamb stew with smoky eggplant
purée, all amid fresh, mod décor accented with Eveline's own
paintings (main courses 18-20 Turkish lira, four-course menu 40).
But the big difference here is that she and chef Feyzi Yildirim
have taken a leaf from the proliferation of cooking classes
throughout Europe, becoming the first and still one of the few and
most accessible such venues in Turkey. For €60 (US$82/£52) you can
take classes running two to 2 1/2 hours, offered in English (with
other options French, Dutch, and Turkish), either in the morning or
the afternoon, then sit down and tuck into your five-course
handiwork with local wine. Afterward, check out the little shop
stocked with ingredients you may not easily find in your own
country. Classes are held Monday through Saturday except in winter,
when it's two or three per week.
Up in the
northern Amhara region, the small mountain town of Lalibela is
fairly rustic and not much to look at. But once upon a time it
aspired to be a "new Jerusalem," and what makes it special today is
what it's home to as a result: one of Africa's most astonishing
man-made sights, unique in the world -- 11 Ethiopian Orthodox
churches built over two dozen years in the 12th century by order of
the eponymous emperor Gebre Mesquel Lalibela, who ruled after the
Axum empire went to pot. What makes the churches in turn so amazing
is that each, up to 40 feet high, is carved out of reddish volcanic
tufa, complete with pillars, arches, and windows, and lies in a
deep pit also hewn from bedrock. With names like Golgotha, Emanuel,
and St. George, some of these lichen-covered structures have
Byzantine-flavored art on the inside, while others are more plain.
They're connected via a system of stairways, tunnels, trenches and
courtyards, and attended to by a phalanx of monks and priests;
religious festivals in September and January are especially
colorful -- though packed -- times to visit. Shelters are being
built to protect the churches from weather until such time as they
can be restored. Since pilgrims and tourists are butter on the
bread hereabouts, there's no shortage of spots to eat and sleep --
some on the simple side, others like the Roha
Hotel, Tukul Village, and Mountains View
Hotel, fairly modern -- and all inexpensive to dirt-cheap.
More info: TourismEthiopia.org, LalibelaTown.com,
Lalibela.net.
The USA's
nearly four million square miles (10 million sq. km) is chock full
of quirky, generally mom-and-pop- generated attractions, from
gargantuan balls of string to double-decker outhouses. But few
sport the strange and venerable pedigree of a little walled complex
practically in the Everglades, way down south in Miami-Dade County
in the town of Homestead. Open daily, the Coral Castle Museum,
now on the National Register of Historic Places, is an
extraordinary collection of sculptures and structures hewn from
well over a thousand tons of limestone/coral rock -- gates, rocking
chairs, fountains, a sundial, and more. Cool stuff -- the gates and
rockers are so perfectly balanced you can move them with a finger.
But the real kicker is that all of this was built without motorized
equipment by one guy, Ed Leedskalnin -- a diminutive Latvian
immigrant who was so traumatized by being dumped at the altar, he
threw himself into this 28-year monument to love (1923-51) and then
charged visitors to gawk. Because some have speculated he used "the
power of the pyramids" or similar woo-woo forces to build the
complex, it's become a favorite of a lot of New Agers, Wiccans, and
so forth, who flock here for events like "psychic Saturday" the
first weekend of each month. Whatever the castle's origin, it's a
historic hoot.
For those of
us in awe of pre-Columbian civilizations, few cities in the world
are as evocative as Cuzco, 11,000 feet (3,000 meters) up in
southeast Peru's Andes, mixing as it does ancient Inca sites such
as Sacsayhuaman and the temples of the sun and moon -- as well as
access to the legendary Machu Picchu -- with the more widespread
colonial architecture of the conquering Spaniards. Tourism is of
course its biggest industry these days, so there are plenty of
places to hang your sombrero, but none quite as grand and
historic as the 126-room Hotel
Monasterio, a couple of blocks uphill from the old quarter's
main square, Plaza de Armas. Built as Franciscan monastery San
Antonio Abad in 1592, 60 years after Francisco Pizarro's marauders
first barged in and sacked the place. Converted into a luxury hotel
in 1995 and now owned by über-fancy Orient Express, it ain't cheap
-- nightly rates are mostly north of $400. And though that doesn't
even get you the usual high-end perks like pool, spa, and workout
room, the rooms are hardly monastic anymore (not to mention
hyper-oxygenated, to combat the nasty effects of soroche --
altitude sickness), and for some it may be worth it to bunk in such
a palatial setting in such a special city. Even if you don't stay
here, it's well worth a visit to ogle the magnificent courtyard and
painting-adorned Baroque chapel or splurge on a meal including
local specialties like alpaca and rodentlike cuy in the
fine-dining restaurant.
Most
first-timers in Shanghai, if they take a day trip or overnighter,
usually make a beeline for Suzhou with its famous walled gardens,
temples, and museums. Nearby and less well-known but also plenty
fetching, the "water town" of Zhujiajiao (pop. 60,000) is a bus or
car ride of 45 minutes to an hour from downtown Shanghai, in the
outlying Qingpu district of this sprawling megalopolis. On the
shores of Lake Daishon, the old quarter of this 17-century-old town
(yep, you read that right) draws the lake's waters into a
ridiculously picturesque mile-square maze of streams and canals,
bridges, courtyards, pathways, and alleys; you can see right away
why it's a favorite with Chinese and international film and TV
crews. Besides roaming the narrow streets amid two-story
whitewashed buildings and checking out highlights such as main drag
Bei Dajie, Fangsheng Bridge, Wang Chang Memorial Hall, post office
museum, ancient Chinese pharmacy, Kezhi Gardens, and Yunjin
Monastery, don't pass up a canal cruise in one of the little
covered boats. Local authorities have recently been pouring money
into sprucing up the old town, building in the new town in a
similar style, and encouraging the efforts of local craftsmen,
artists, and artisans -- all with an eye toward the tourist influx
expected during Shanghai's World Expo this May through October. Add
to that some regentrification by refugees from Shanghai, and
there's enough going on to merit an overnight; there's a decent
selection of smallish hotels and guesthouses and even a spot of
nightlife these days. More info: Zhujiajiao.com.
Auld
acquaintance, indeed -- when it comes to public NYE bashes, there's
no acquaintance aulder than that of the Scots, and it all reaches
its biggest and bashiest in Scotland's capital, Edinburgh. Here the
partying starts on December 29 with a carnival, torchlight
procession from Royal Mile to Carlton Hill, fireworks, and the
burning of a Viking ship by lots of drunks in blond wigs (some of
Hogmanay's traditions go back to the Vikings); on New Year's Eve up
more than 100,000 revelers throng the city center for a street
party, concerts, bonfires, and at midnight another burst of
fireworks and the famous mass rendition of Auld Lang Syne. Other
Scottish cities and towns have their own whimsical, sometimes
bizarre twists: in South Queensferry, part of Greater Edinburgh,
hundreds of people participate in the "Loony Dook," rushing into
the cold North Atlantic waters on January 1; in Stonehaven, near
Aberdeen, NYE's highlight is a parade with a few dozen guys
swinging fireballs in wire mesh; in the town of Burghhead up on the
north coast, it's a burning barrel (though not till Jan. 11, the
original date of Hogmanay). But no matter where in Scotland it's
celebrated, it goes without saying that many, many, many "cups of
kindness yet" are involved. Happy 2010, everybody! More info:
Hogmanay.net,
EdinburghsHogmanay.com.
Above the Arctic Circle in Finnish
Lappland -- which is, after all, about as close to the North Pole
as most of us can reasonably get (by air from Helsinki), Santa
Claus' Village, in business since 1985, makes for a pretty
groovy wintertime family destination -- complete with real
reindeer! Obviously you'll find plenty of holiday-themed stuff --
exhibits of Finnish and international Christmas traditions (plus
others of crystal, coins and gemstones); an elf-infested post
office for mailing letters to you-know-whom; sundry shops; a couple
of eateries; sleigh rides; an ice bar (for mom and dad, of course)
-- and of course visits with Joulupukki (Santa) himself in his
office and toy factory. But Rovaniemi's also a great winter
playground in general -- snowmobiling, sledding, skiing,
snowshoeing, northern-lights gazing, exploring the Lapp culture --
the whole chilly nine yards. Once the season's over and the snow
goes away? Well, we guess you really have to be hyper-enamored of
Yuletide -- but then again, there are a handful of summer Santa's
villages out there, too, not to mention various shops that somehow
manage to sell Christmas ornaments and paraphernalia year-round. So
ho-ho-go for it! More info: SantaClausVillage.info, VisitRovaniemi.com.
Washington State's best-known burg is famous for its spectacular
setting and cityscape, including downtown's 20-block Pioneer Square
neighborhood, which dates to the city's founding in the 1850's. But
by a century later, what many folks had forgotten was that when the
city rebuilt after an 1889 fire, in raising the sidewalks to solve
a flooding problem it left a swath of the old shops, bars, hotel
lobbies, and other establishments under the new street level. In
the 1960s a local PR guy and preservationist named Bill Seidel
started tours of these underground spaces, and this is how you can
see them today; US$12-$15 gets you a 90-minute stroll and a spiel
that gets a little jokey (not to mention a little blue -- not too
surprising considering the role prostitution played in the whole
shebang back then; there's an adults-only night tour that goes into
all that a little deeper, so to speak). Definitely spooky-cool.
More info: UndergroundTour.com, PioneerSquareDistrict.org.
Chilly
chic is back again, thanks to those clever Swedes and Quebecois.
First up, from December 10 to mid-April, the Swedish Lappland town
of Jukkasjärvi, north of the Arctic Circle, will be the site of the
59,200-square foot (5,500-square-meter) 20th edition of the
original ICEHOTEL (you fly into Stockholm, then connect to
Kiruna; British Airways also flies direct to Kiruna from Heathrow,
believe it or not). For rates from 1,350 krona (US$197) a night per
person, you can sleep in one of the 80 artist-designed rooms and
suites carved from snow and ice (with thermal underwear and
sleeping bags, of course), or in a more conventional, heated hotel
annex. While you're up here, activities include sauna, snowshoe,
snowmobile/dogsled tours, ice sculpture lessons, and visits with
the local Sami people. If you can't make it this time around,
they're planning to open it a month earlier next winter. Meanwhile,
for those on the other side of the Atlantic, in Canada's Duchesnay
winter resort area a half hour from picturesque Quebec City, the
Hôtel de Glace marks its tenth winter this January 4 to
April 4. It's quite a bit plus petit (32,000 square
feet/3,000 square meters), but just as, er, cool as its Swedish
inspiration, with similar amenities and activities (but no Sami, of
course). An overnight in one of its 36 rooms and suites starts at
CAD 219 (US$208) per person, or you can just stop in for a tour and
a bracing gulp at the ice bar. More info: www.IceHotel.com,
www.HotelDeGlace-Canada.com.
November 2009: Cavort Like a Sultan at Brunei's Empire
Hotel & Country Club
It's just
nine years old, but as you'd expect, this resort on the South China
Sea beachfront in the small Malay sultanate ruled by one of the
world's richest men -- originally built as a royal palace by the
sultan's kid brother to the tune of more than US$1 billion -- has
been in the front ranks of Asia's top hostelries ever since. With
420 rooms, suites, and villas on a lushly landscaped 45-acre
(180-hectare) spread, the palatial joint is awash in soaring
columns and all manner of sumptuous finishes -- marble, teak, silk,
gold, you name it. Plus everything here is big -- from the
atrium lobby to the guest rooms (we've been in some Manhattan
studios smaller than these bathrooms), and the amenities just go on
and on: not just a lagoon beachfront, five restaurants, five pools,
tennis courts, gym, and 18-hole Jack Nicklaus links, but even a
movie theater, live stage theater, and bowling alley (one big
drawback for the non-abstemious: no booze, according to Islamic
practice). The Empire makes a great base for exploring the mosques
and water villages of the sultanate, along with ecotourism in the
Borneo rainforests that begin right outside the gates. Rates are
more reasonable than you'd imagine, starting at B$250 (US$180/£108)
per night, with special promotions sometimes even less. More
info: www.TheEmpireHotel.com.
November 2009: Beat the Winter Dol-Drums at Caro Diallo Dance
Camp, Abene, Senegal
Up for an
adventure that none of your friends have twigged to yet? Check out
French-flavored West Africa this winter, where internationally
recognized Senegalese dancer Caro Diallo teaches traditional dance
and drumming at his beachside camp at Abene, in Senegal's southern
Casamance region, December through February. Guests stay in
comfortable if not exactly luxurious African-style huts, dine on
savory local cuisine, and participate in two dance classes daily
(at the camp or on the beach) and/or one daily drumming class,
taught by pros from Caro's dance company, Black Soofa. You get out
and about to explore real local life and nature, too, with jaunts
to villages, markets, music and dance events, festivals, and canoe
trips to explore island bird sanctuaries and coastal mangroves.
It's pretty affordable, too -- from $520 to $680 per person per
week, including all dance and drum classes, accommodation, and
three meals daily. They can also arrange airport transfers and
sightseeing in Dakar and the Gambia. Moving to throbbing drum beats
echoing the beating of your own heart propels your body unlike any
other kind of dance, and even if you're a rank beginner, you'll
come out of this one with not just some nifty moves but very likely
some significant new self-knowledge, too. More info: www.CaroDiallo.com, genovefa@sover.net.
October-November 2009: 20th Anniversary Celebration of Berlin
Wall's Fall
November --
and especially Nov. 9 -- mark a huge, emotional anniversary for
this country and its capital -- and for that matter, for Europe and
the world. Namely, it's the 20th anniversary of the
Mauerfall (fall of the Berlin Wall), leading to the
reunification of the Bundesrepublik and the GDR, and of course to
tectonic shifts in world politics, culture, and more as the Cold
War started fading into the past. Visitors to unified Germany's
capital this month can attend various art and history exhibitions
and presentations around the city including an open-air exhibition
in Alexanderplatz. If you happen to be in town on the 9th, events
include a huge street fair and a concert by the Staatskapelle on
famous boulevard Unter den Linden near iconic Brandenburg Gate.
Besides all that, there are sites that will remain into the future,
such as the artist-decorated preserved segment of the Wall and
ominous border-guard tower on Muhlenstrasse; a museum devoted to
escapes from the GDR; and a re-creation of the famous "Checkpoint
Charlie" border crossing. If you've got time to head beyond the
city into eastern Germany, you'll also find memorials, museums, and
other monuments to the era of division. More info: Tripatini's
Berlin group.
October 2009: Hotel Chelsea, New York City, USA
As
generations of visitors have been able to attest, when it comes to
digs, it ain't easy to unearth big deals in the core of the Big
Apple -- comfy, conveniently located, and moderately priced , let
alone with any kind of history or character. That's why even in
2009, the 115-room Chelsea remains a find. With a looming red-brick
facade on a major thoroughfare in the eponymous Chelsea
neighborhood, it's got no major on-site amenities besides WiFi and
a great old Spanish restaurant, but it is way convenient to lots of
cool shopping, dining, clubbing, and attractions (you can stroll to
Times Square, the Empire State Building, and Greenwich Village
without too much trauma). Rooms start at US$129 -- not bad at all
for Manhattan. But the bonus beyond all the above is the Chelsea's
126-year history and funky, boho vibe. The place has only a dozen
stories physically, but historically it could fill several memoirs
and then some. Operating as a hotel since 1905, it's hosted some of
the 20th-century's towering (and sometimes quirky) artsy-fartsy
types, including Bob Dylan, Arthur Miller, William Bourroughs,
Jasper Johns, Allen Ginsberg, Jimi Hendrix, and Janis Joplin. It's
where poet Dylan Thomas died of booze poisoning and punk rocker Sid
Vicious stabbed his girlfriend Nancy to death. These days you might
find yourself, say, in the middle of a photo shoot with Kate
Winslet. Even if not, you'll get a charge out of the public areas,
crammed with funky art by residents and friends; you can even take
a historic tour of the joint. More info: HotelChelsea.com
October 2009: Finca Luna Nueva, San Ramón, Costa
Rica
'Tis
fairly tough to single out one eco-lodge among the multitude
that've helped make little Costa Rica a green tourism powerhouse.
But one of our very own members, Finca Luna Nueva Lodge (FLN
meaning "New Moon Farm"), makes as good a case as any. Located in
CR's "Northern Zone," about a two-hour drive from San José and
three to four from the Pacific beach resorts, it nestles in a lush
private rain forest near the famous Arenal Volcano, famous for its
frequent nighttime lava shows and natural hot springs open to the
public (the most elaborately landscaped being the ones that are
part of Tabacón Resort). The nearby town of La Fortuna sports some
decent nightlife plus approximately a half-bazillion adventure
outfitters that'll have you rafting rapids, ziplining, rapelling
down waterfalls, and so on. But chances are you'll want to spend a
fair bit of your time hanging at Luna Nueva, what with stuff to do
like guided flora and wildlife walks, a natural spring-fed swimming
pool, solar-heated hot tub, horseback riding, mountain biking, spa
and holistic wellness services, eco cooking classes, and biodynamic
farm and medicinal herb garden tours. Rates are pretty friendly to
your financial ecology, too -- "rustic luxe" bungalows from US$70
per day with breakfast (tack on $30 if you want A/C, but the
ceiling fans tend to do the job quite nicely). The cantina serves
locally grown organic fare at good prices, too. More info: our
Finca Luna Nueva Lodge group.
October 2009: Sossusvlei, Namib-Naukluft National Park,
Namibia
Out in
the Namib desert of southwest Namibia, about a 3 1/2-hour drive
south of capital Windhoek, one of the world's more impressive
natural sights and experiences are its highest (up to some 280
feet/85 meters) and oldest sand dunes, part of Africa's biggest
game park. Punctuated by dramatically desolate-looking camel thorn
trees, you can balloon and fly over these "star dunes," hike them
with a guide, and even surf down them (we'll get back to you on how
to say "cowabunga!" in Nama). The best times to see them are
sunrise and sunset, when their reddish-orangy hues shift, shimmer,
and glow. Don't forget to also stop for a peek at dramatic Sesriem
Canyon, some 40 miles (65 km) away. Admission to Namib-Naukluft is
N$80 (US$11), and for overnighting, there are various lodges in the
area to choose from. A top new upscale choice is Sossus Dune Lodge,
but if its N$2,400 (US$304) lead rate is a tad rich for your blood,
other options include Desert Camp (from N$455/US$60 per person),
Desert Homestead (from N$583/US$78 pp), and Betesda Lodge (from
N$550/US$74 pp, or just N$80/US$11 to camp.) That's if you go
independently -- there are also, of course, a number of safari
operators which include this on their all-inclusive itineraries.
More info: see our Namibia and Africa
Safaris groups.
September-October 2009: Udaipur, Rajasthan, India
On rare
occasions, one can be excused a cliché, so here goes: there's an
aura about Udaipur, India -- one that's almost mystical, and
certainly majestic. But roaming amid its huge 16th- and
17th-century marble and sandstone palaces on (and some even
serenely floating amid) the clear blue waters of Lake Pichola,
anyone would be hard-pressed to deny the description. Because even
though the lake waters have sometimes been pretty low this year,
the "Venice of the East," nestled in a valley surrounded by the
Aravalli hills of north India's huge Rajasthan state, is still just
about picture-perfect. Hollywood and Bollywood obviously think so
-- among many other TV and screen productions, Gandhi,
Octopussy, and Darjeeling Limited shot scenes here.
Founding maharaja Udai Singh's massive palace complex, built in
1559, is today one the city's top sights (and hotels), offering
panoramic views from many of its windows, balconies, and towers.
The wealth of paintings, vintage furniture, and other antiques is
stunning, and if you can't quite swing the 12,000-rupee (US$250)
starting room rate, come in for a meal or just a look around.
Plenty of less pricey digs and eats are also available, such as the
atmospheric Udai Kothi (from 5,000 rupees/US$104) and another
palace hostelry, Jagat Niwas (from just 1,550 rupees/ US$32).
More info: www.UdaipurTourism.com.
September 2009: Kurá Hulanda Resorts, Spa & Museum,
Curaçao, Netherlands Antilles 
In addition to some dandy diving, dining, nightlife, and a few
sweet strands, the "C" in the ABC islands of the Dutch West Indies
serves up some fascinating culture, especially from its colonial
days, including fairytale architecture and landhuizen
(country estates) where you can dine or even overnight. Cultural
exhibit A, however, has to be the museum and seasonal show offered
by one of the Caribbean's most special resorts, the 80-room Kurá
Hulanda. The main complex, a quick stroll across the pontoon bridge
from capital Willemstad, is a self-contained, cobblestone-paved
"village" made up of gorgeously restored 18th- and 19th-century
buildings (if you absolutely must stay on a beach, go for the
newer, 74-room Lodge/Beach Club up on the north coast, and make use
of the shuttle between the two). Despite the deluxe nature of both,
good deals are available, with autumn rates starting at US$130 per
night. But for us the centerpiece is the Museum Kurá Hulanda, also
open to non-guests (15 ANG/US$9 per person; 9 ANG/US$6 for seniors
and kids under 13; 13 ANG/US$7 for students). The collection is
owner Jacob Gelt Dekker's expertly curated homage to Curaçao's
Papiamento culture, focusing especially on its African roots and
the slave trade; from October through April, an evening show is
added to the mix. It's a moving and powerful experience sure to
give a profound extra dimension to your turn-n-burn vaycay. More
info: www.KuraHulanda.com.
September 2009: Greenway Mansion, Devon, England
Britain's
National Trust runs a beguiling array of estates, castles,
churches, and abbeys, and plenty can boast an air of mystery and
even a few murders committed within their precincts... but how many
can claim they sheltered the world's greatest maestro of the murder
mystery? The manse and gardens Agatha Christie and archaeologist
hubby Max Mallowan shared on the River Dart near Brixham was
recently opened to the public for the first time, and they make for
a fascinating look indeed into Dame Agatha's life, times, and
œuvre. There's also some nifty New World connections dating back to
the 16th century: Sir Walter Raleigh was born here, and the house
was built by a family that included the discoverer of Newfoundland.
Fans can also walk the "Agatha Christie Mile" in nearby Torquay,
and enjoy September's weeklong "English Riviera Agatha Christie
Festival" (2010's should be even more elaborate, given that it's
the author's 120th birthday). More info: NationalTrust.org.uk/Greenway, AgathaChristie.com, EnglishRiviera.co.uk/AgathaChristie.
September 2009: Coober Pedy, Australia
Next time you're knocking about the
Outback, check this out. Some 480 miles northwest of Adelaide and
585 miles south of Alice Springs (and accessible by road, train,
and even air), Coober Pedy is not just the "Opal Capital of
Australia," but really takes the expression "down under" literally.
Local blokes and sheilas have turned former mining tunnels into
homes, galleries, museums, a church (above left)-- and er, digs,
such as Radeka Underground Backpackers, run by bearded,
central-casting-minerish-looking Martin Smith (rooms here start at
A$60/US$50) and fancier establishments like the Desert Cave Hotel
(from A$218/US$185). The town itself is a fun hang, its population
of 3,500 livened up by a multinational bunch here to plumb the
various depths, tour the opal fields, party in joints like
Crocodile Harry's Underground Nest, and explore surrounding locales
like Oodnadatta and Coward Springs. You might just say that C-P
really, well, rocks. More info: www.Radeka Downunder.com.au, www.OpalCapitalOfTheWorld.com.au, DesertCave.com.au.
August/September 2009: Acadêmicos do Salgueiro, Rio de
Janeiro, Brazil
Rio's
famous Carnaval is of course but once a year and can end up being
kinda pricey to say the least, but you can get a taste of the fun
at a fraction of the cost beginning in August, when locals start
revving their engines for next year's mother of all parties
(February 13-16) in raucous rodas da samba open to the public. One
of the top so-called samba schools -- and top-dog in the 2009
Carnaval -- is 56-year-old Salgueiro, and a night spent in its huge
hall on Rua Silva Teles in the Andaraí neighborhood is likely to be
one of the highlights of your visit. Held almost every night of the
week starting at 10PM (check "Quadra e Eventos" on the Salgueiro
web site, below), it's loud, festive fun -- down a couple of
caipirinhas and boogie along. Entry is a mere 15 reais (currently
about US$8) for men and 10 for women, and the the first 200 ladies
to show up get in free. If you happen to be around the second
Sunday of any month, you might also want to consider stopping by in
the afternoon for Salgueiro's feijoada party (feijoada's Brazil's
national dish, a bean-based stew). More info: Salgueiro.com.br.
August 2009: Mackinac Island, Michigan,
USA
In the United States, Labor Day, the traditional end of the summer
season, is fast approaching. But there are still several more good
weeks in September and October left if you're in the market for a
beachy late-season escape -- and Midwesterners have long known that
a swell strand doesn't necessarily have to be on an ocean. North
America's inland freshwater seas, the six Great Lakes, have
supported resorts for more than a century, and there's no better
example that Lake Huron's Victorian-flavored, four-square-mile
Mackinac Island, the entirety of which is a National
Historic Monument that bans almost all motor vehicles. If you want
to attend the famous Fudge Festival, you'll have to wait till next
August. But there's still plenty of history, carriage tours,
hiking, fishing, and swimming going on even after Labor Day. And
while overnighting can certainly be pricey, it doesn't have to be,
even at lovely historic properties like Mission Point Resort
(from $150) and Main Street Inn and Suites ($80). More info:
MissionPoint.com, MainStreetInnAndSuites.com,
MackinacIsland.org.
August 2009: Graciosa Resort, Santa Cruz da Graciosa, Azores
Islands, Portugal 
Graciosa, a lovely little island in the Azores chain in the
Atlantic, is taking its under-the-radar tourism scene to the next
level this summer, opening its first hotel above the level of a
pensão (guesthouse). The 120-room, contemporary-flavored
Graciosa Resort & Business Hotel (rates from 90€/US$128) makes
a great base to explore exquisite hills and coastlines, windmills,
geysers, volcanic craters, thermal spas, underground grottoes and
lake, and villages where you can soak up plenty of whitewashed
charm and shop for handmade embroidery and linens as well as the
island’s well-known wines, brandy, and cheese. There’s also diving;
beaches; a nice, mild climate; and of course a vibe that’s
laid-back and plenty graciosa (graceful). These days you can
even fly here from the U.S. (out of Boston, on Azores Express
SATA). More info: www.GraciosaHotel.com, www.VisitAzores.travel,
Triptatini's Portugal group.
August 2009: Casa Lila, Essaouira,
Morocco
A 2-1/2 to 3-hour drive from Marrakesh, one of Morocco's jewels is
the Atlantic port city of Essaouira, built as a fortified town in
the 18th century and today a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here in
this mix of traditional and cool alternative vibe (along with some
nearby beach resorts), as elsewhere in Morocco, the most
atmospheric places to stay are the riads (traditional houses)
converted into inns. Starting at just over US$100/night, the
10-room, lilac-hued Casa Lila in the medina (old city center) is a
marvelous mix of affordability and elegant design. More info:
RiadsMorocco.com.
July 2009: Omega Institute, Rhinebeck, New York,
USA
One of
the brighter stars in today's learning-vacations firmament, this
New Age-flavored summer camp for grown-ups in New York State's
beautiful Hudson Valley is a great spot for some R&R on a
woodsy country lake, with swimming, boating, biking, hiking and
more. April through October, very reasonably priced two- to
five-day packages are available, including a variety of digs
ranging from basic campsites to deluxe private cabins, and
seminars/workshops taught by a faculty that includes some fairly
well-known names (Isabel Allende, Joan Borysenko, Malachy McCourt,
Gloria Steinem, and Helen Thomas ring a bell?). Rates vary quite a
bit but start at less than $100 a night. For more info, log on to
www.EOmega.org.
July 2009: Paul Bocuse's Ouest Express,
Lyon, France
The world's most revered chef turning to -- fast food? Mais
oui -- and we sure wish all fast food were like this: both
affordable and top-quality. Located in the up-and-coming Vaise
neighborhood of Bocuse's home city of Lyon, the sleek, futuristic
shop specializes in fresh pastas, salads, baguette sandwiches, and
pastries. This fall, a new branch is opening closer to downtown, in
the fancy La Part Dieu mall. For more info, see go-lo's France discussion in the Eating/Drinking the World
group.
July 2009: Hotel Zamas, Tulum, Mexico
South of Cancun, the "Riviera Maya" has become known for the
bopping town of Playa del Carmen and a string of big and
increasingly upscale resorts north and south of town. But for a
more laid-back and less pricey beach experience still within easy
reach of both Playa, Cancun, and some spectacular Maya ruins, check
out the small beach hotels of Tulum, such as Zamas, starting
at $100 a night. For more info, check out Tripatini's
Mexico group.


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