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Flying into Siem Reap, Cambodia, the vista from my window is of vast stretches of land at various stages of submersion. The paddy fields that aren't under water appear as a quilt of shallow, square pools. It's December; the waters are still receding. I'm on my way to the Jayavarman, the ship that will take me by river from whence I just departed by air: Saigon. ...Cruising downstream of the Great…